Not sure but I don't think a "pending fault" will cause a freeze frame snap shot since the fault hasn't actually occurred as the conditions for settings the code haven't been met.... my guess / read.
I wonder if that shop actually read an old/historical code rather than an active one? He even said that he was able to activate the motor but it had a code saying that it was open? Since you...
ok... so then are the codes the same with fuse in versus fuse out? Of course, the matter of "code reset" has to be considered which might not be within your reader capability.
Actually it turns out I can read brake codes, I just never thought to since it didn't throw a dash light. I poked around on my scanner when I had the fuse out and found where I could read them...
Interesting as fuse 33 is the powering for the motor and not necessarily the main power for the EBCM which appears to be 51 so the EBCM appears to be setting the light as opposed to the BCM that...
ABS motor is confirmed GOOD. Used a couple solid copper wires as leads, plugged them into its connector, and tapped them to the terminals of a 9.6v drill battery.
I'm aware that's not ideal but...
which fuse number?
ADDED: My read of things is that pulling the / a fuse does not necessarily mean that the EBCM is functioning in terms of warnings as the warning could be generated elsewhere...
Update - ABS light is functional. I pulled the ABS fuse both to check the light and to see if it changed the pedal feel with no power going to the EBCM. The ABS light illuminated and the "Service...
I understand.... but you also made comments about "I'll still check everything I can to try ruling out the EBCM". I am trying to help you do that. As I mentioned and you stated, that the...
Can
does the light work? Based on what the garage guys did commanding the motor to run, it would appear to point at the EBCM module as having an issue and not fully operating valves. Check...
I don't know anything about the abs operation but it seems rather "simple" in terms of "outward" electronics. The first concern would be the lack of indicator light on the dash for the fault...
Looking back at the photos... in particular, the second photo of the pins at the pcm connector. There appears to a be a few that seem to show some form of discoloration and even a bit bent...
Another thing you will find is that torque is somewhat a "community app"... meaning that it is not "sanctioned" by the auto makers and thus not everything is guaranteed to be "spec'ed as...
I don't think that is correct. Yes, there are O2 sensor readings which are "voltage based"... but I think what you are seeing is some "app implementation issue"... I would have to check...
Not all data elements exist on a given vehicle. In the 4.2l engine case, there are only two o2 sensors, bank 1. Further, fuel trims are typically only concerned with the "front sensor" (ie...
If you are doing a lot of stop and go city driving, you are going to be hard pressed to get any better ... maybe as much as 6 ... my experience on suburb driving.
Certainly, if your driving is...
yes.... the amount of vacuum being pulled thru the "metered orifice" on the other side may not be enough to over come the "fresh air intake" at the resonator. I probably need to cap the barb...
Thanks for the hints. As suggested, removing the brake vac line helped get better leverage and hand access... plus I was then able to see what I was up against in terms of the length of the...
Moving the brake booster vacuum hose out of the way gives you a bit more room to work and is easy to do.
The plastic barb is, hopefully, tougher than you think. I say hopefully because you never...
On my 2008 TB 4.2l with 240kkm plus, I thought that perhaps its a good time to pay some attention the the PCV path.... especially since it appears that perhaps the system is not working "well"...
OK, update.
I tested the continuity between the female slots 71 & 72 on the ECM connector and the female slots on the knock sensor harness connector. Both had continuity and no resistance. I had...
Actually, I think this code (and related sister code) means that the system will not being doing its job as the system disregards the output from the sensor and thus there is NO compensation done...
Here's the schematic for the knock sensors. You'll want to check the wires for sensor #2.
Be sure to check resistance/continuity from the sensor wires to the PCM and also to ground on both...