Recent content by budwich

Not sure but I don't think a "pending fault" will cause a freeze frame snap shot since the fault hasn't actually occurred as the conditions for settings the code haven't been met.... my guess / read. ADDED: thinking about your meter testing some more. How about this impedance test...

ok... so then are the codes the same with fuse in versus fuse out? Of course, the matter of "code reset" has to be considered which might not be within your reader capability.

Interesting as fuse 33 is the powering for the motor and not necessarily the main power for the EBCM which appears to be 51 so the EBCM appears to be setting the light as opposed to the BCM that I had suggested. Of course, it would be nice if you could read brake codes.... thus the test would...

which fuse number? ADDED: My read of things is that pulling the / a fuse does not necessarily mean that the EBCM is functioning in terms of warnings as the warning could be generated elsewhere because another module (BCM) didn't receive an appropriate message because of lack of power...

I understand.... but you also made comments about "I'll still check everything I can to try ruling out the EBCM". I am trying to help you do that. As I mentioned and you stated, that the mechanic was able to operate the motor, so it is unlikely that the motor itself is bad (its not 100%...

Can does the light work? Based on what the garage guys did commanding the motor to run, it would appear to point at the EBCM module as having an issue and not fully operating valves. Check the voltage going in on the c2 connector along with the grounds. Specifically, disconnect the...

I don't know anything about the abs operation but it seems rather "simple" in terms of "outward" electronics. The first concern would be the lack of indicator light on the dash for the fault code. Do you see the abs light during the "all lights" check with key on? As mentioned, have you...

lots of "detective work"... have you looked at any of the freeze frame for the code?

Looking back at the photos... in particular, the second photo of the pins at the pcm connector. There appears to a be a few that seem to show some form of discoloration and even a bit bent.... maybe it just the photo.

Another thing you will find is that torque is somewhat a "community app"... meaning that it is not "sanctioned" by the auto makers and thus not everything is guaranteed to be "spec'ed as engineered"... meaning not all information presented is exactly as the auto maker designed, GM in this case...

I don't think that is correct. Yes, there are O2 sensor readings which are "voltage based"... but I think what you are seeing is some "app implementation issue"... I would have to check further. There is no bank 2 O2 sensors on a 4.2. The "strangeness" of the labelling is that fuel trims...

Not all data elements exist on a given vehicle. In the 4.2l engine case, there are only two o2 sensors, bank 1. Further, fuel trims are typically only concerned with the "front sensor" (ie. upstream). The downstream sensor is used to track "cat efficiency". You should be seeing a "fuel...

If you are doing a lot of stop and go city driving, you are going to be hard pressed to get any better ... maybe as much as 6 ... my experience on suburb driving. Certainly, if your driving is more highway, then that number is bad. Place to start would be to look at fuel trims during idle and...

yes.... the amount of vacuum being pulled thru the "metered orifice" on the other side may not be enough to over come the "fresh air intake" at the resonator. I probably need to cap the barb fitting at the valve cover so that basically there is no fresh air coming into the crank and then do...

Thanks for the hints. As suggested, removing the brake vac line helped get better leverage and hand access... plus I was then able to see what I was up against in terms of the length of the nipple. Anyway I got the hose end off. Now some more questions...:-) Based on readings around, people...