Right Front Low Beam No Power

steven76

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Posts
54
Please help! There is no power to my passenger side low beam lamp. I have already been pulled over two times, but have talked my way out of the ticket.

I have HIDs, and the previous owner rewired something (I think) because I have QUADS, but only when the fog lights are switched on.
I thought the bulb was bad so I replaced it, nothing.
Then, I thought the ballast was bad so I replaced it too, still nothing.
Then, I checked all the headlight fuses and also replaced them even though they were good, still nothing.
I then tried the bulb from the driver side (which IS working) and nothing on the passenger side, but works back on the drivers side.

All of my other headlamps work except for this passenger side low beam, and all of the fuses are good.
Does anyone have an idea of what the problem could be?

I don't know if the wiring is at all related, but I still have the issue of my Rear AC controls only working when the TB is not running, but stop working when I turn it on.
If it ends up being a big song and dance to repair this, I might end up splicing it to the drivers side, unless someone tells me this is a bad idea.
 
Are you using a relay harness to power your HIDs directly from the battery? If you're not, and using the low beam pigtails from inside the headlight to fire your HID ballasts, how does the low beam pigtail look on the passenger side? Any melting/scorching of the wiring or connector?

More importantly, do you own a meter? That is a requirement to make electrical troubleshooting easier to conduct.
 
Blckshdw said:
Are you using a relay harness to power your HIDs directly from the battery? If you're not, and using the low beam pigtails from inside the headlight to fire your HID ballasts, how does the low beam pigtail look on the passenger side? Any melting/scorching of the wiring or connector?

More importantly, do you own a meter? That is a requirement to make electrical troubleshooting easier to conduct.

Have been looking for someone with the same issue as you mentioned above. Have had to replace the melted/scorched pigtail three times now, fortunately thru a really cheap wrecker nearby. What is the cure for this headache?
 
cleanwaterguy said:
Have been looking for someone with the same issue as you mentioned above. Have had to replace the melted/scorched pigtail three times now, fortunately thru a really cheap wrecker nearby. What is the cure for this headache?

Are you running stock bulbs or HIDs? If it's a recurring problem, you could use a relay harness (HIDs or not). The heavier gauge wire would handle the current better, although it would be better to figure out what's causing it (if you're not running HIDs)

[EBAY]251203321734[/EBAY]

One of the pics in the ad shows you how to wire it up.
 
Blckshdw said:
Are you running stock bulbs or HIDs? If it's a recurring problem, you could use a relay harness (HIDs or not). The heavier gauge wire would handle the current better, although it would be better to figure out what's causing it (if you're not running HIDs)

[EBAY]251203321734[/EBAY]

One of the pics in the ad shows you how to wire it up.

I'm running regular lights and it seems as though this is a regular problem as I've found a few different threads that relate to the issue. For the price of an electrical check I could buy a whole bunch of pigtails. Thank you for th information.
 
Is it always on one side, both sides, random sides? The more info you provide, the easier it would be to help troubleshoot. Replacing pigtails on a regular basis isn't the best solution. :twocents:
 
It's always the passenger side. I've gone months without having to change anything and then over the last 2 months gone through 3 of them...I'd like to fix it properly but just don't have the deep pockets required for an electrical diag. That's why I was hoping to find the solution on here.
 
How does the connector that plugs into the passenger side light look? Any corrosion on the headlight pins, or any visible damage to the harness that plugs into it?
 
are you running standard bulbs, or optional brighter, higher powered ones?

(brighter bulbs will burn hotter and last less time)

make sure you get a high temp socket (pigtail)

and make sure the splice is solid and insulated.

make sure there are not any leaks in the housing. water is not good.
 
Everything inside the housing is clean and dry, no moisture, no surface rust on connectors. The rubber covers are in place, no condensation on the lenses, and because they are techically 'new' connectors, I've made sure that they are in good condition before I attach them. They are hooked up using crimp connectors, and then I wrap the connectors in electrical tape. The scorching/melting is happening at the connection to the lamp itself, which are standard OEM lamps purchased at Canadian Tire. The lamps themselves do not burn out, it is only the connector that melts not the lamp housing where it attaches to the lamp. Additionally, it doesn't melt the crimp connectors, or the electrical tape, and only the passenger side is affected. I've seen several Envoys with the same problem, same lamp. Once the plastic is melted the connector doesn't work as well, but jiggling the wires gets the lamp working again - so I just hand the ticket back to the police officer...:smile:

Spoke to my dad tonite and he suggested I use JB weld and see what would happen. Can't hurt to try...good to 2425 PSI...:thumbsup: (and 230 degrees F)

What is a high temp socket? The auto parts store that I went to said there was only one kind available for order...
 
cleanwaterguy said:
What is a high temp socket? The auto parts store that I went to said there was only one kind available for order...

You need a new auto parts store. The high temp pigtails are also called ceramic, those were referenced in the other thread you posted in. These for example.

[EBAY]370603525106[/EBAY]
 
My passenger's side plug melted at the lamp. I replaced it with the high temperature plug
(got it at Advance Auto, so it's available over the counter and not special order), soldered and
heat shrink covered the connections, then put dielectric grease on the socket/plug. It's been
good for a year so far.

EDIT: Dorman Part No. 84793
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...9-p?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15004|L3*15644

The stock plugs/wires seem to just be a bit under rated for a situation where the circuit is powered
pretty much constantly, between DRLs and low beams. That might be why yours keep buring out.

Good Luck!

Chris
 
I'm in Canada, so I tried a few different shops in my area - no luck. Showed them the information from the link - no go. However, did find someone in Toronto that has the ceramic version. They are 16GA which I wonder if that isn't too thin, and I'm considering seeing if I can use a higher gauge wire - any thoughts?
 
Heavier gauge won't hurt, so you can try that if you want. I know stock wiring is pretty thin to begin with, like 20AWG or something. :rolleyes:
 

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