LBJ advice (see photo)

DIYguy

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FL
Hi all,
Any advice how to get this LBJ out? I have a press and already did my uppers but now that I have everything apart I see there is no snap ring.

I cannot replace the entire control arm today, so I don’t want to start grinding away or damage it if I wouldn’t be able to finish.
It appears it could be replaceable but maybe press fit into place?

IMG_9284.jpegIMG_9285.jpeg
 
You can usually knock those in with a punch and hammer and use the press as usual. I usually just grind them off. Cast iron won't grind away as fast as the thin metal.

Just be aware that you need a special spacer on the bottom that will make contact with the arm and the two small tabs. It's usually not included with the cheaper BJ press set.
 
Thanks a lot for the help!

That gives me the confidence to move forward. I’ll update how it goes later.

IlThanks for the advice about not having material for the regular ball joint cups to contact for removal.
 
So I used a cold chisel to bend up the side tabs and then did not have the right press fitting but I used an old socket and 3lb hammer to pound it out. (Electrical tape was just to hold the socket so it didn’t bounce off and I could keep my hand away)

Now to finish.

Thanks again MoosemanIMG_9287.jpegIMG_9288.jpeg
 
Out of curiosity, which brand LBJ did you use?
 
Things go way easier if you hit up the "Loaner Tool" section of your local parts store, and borrow the ball-joint press kit.

I liked it so much, that I told them to keep my money--I'd just buy the thing.

Ball_Joint_23pc_Set_01.jpg

Ball_Joint_23pc_Set_02.jpg

Needed an impact socket, not part of the kit, to do my Trailblazer. Old joint coming out.
Trailblazer_Ball_Joints_11.jpg

Squeezing the new joint back in. If I remember right, the new joints had different-style boots that needed to be aligned with the vent hole inward, so that escaping grease is kept away from the brake rotor.
Trailblazer_Ball_Joints_17.jpg
 
Things go way easier if you hit up the "Loaner Tool" section of your local parts store, and borrow the ball-joint press kit.

I liked it so much, that I told them to keep my money--I'd just buy the thing.

View attachment 113339

View attachment 113340

Needed an impact socket, not part of the kit, to do my Trailblazer. Old joint coming out.
View attachment 113341

Squeezing the new joint back in. If I remember right, the new joints had different-style boots that needed to be aligned with the vent hole inward, so that escaping grease is kept away from the brake rotor.
View attachment 113342

I did use a press to install but my “little kit” didn’t have the cup that goes on the narrow ears for the lower. The 3lb hammer was actually really easy and effective (with an old 3/4” socket as a punch).

I also learned to apply just a bit of silicone spray at the interface which made a huge difference, both in getting the old one out and the new one pressed in.

I fought the press a lot on the first LBJ but the second was fully in within just 5 minutes between a few iterations of press with impact then large hammer.

I also lubricated the press itself with the silicone spray. No use in wasting that impact energy on friction!
 
First time one here of anyone using Delphi suspension pieces. Mind you, Delphi is not the same company as when it was owner by GM. We have had reports of fuel pump failures from them. Hope your LBJs last. Do report back either way.
 
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I also learned to apply just a bit of silicone spray at the interface which made a huge difference, both in getting the old one out and the new one pressed in...


...I also lubricated the press itself with the silicone spray. No use in wasting that impact energy on friction!
Some ball joints (my '97 K2500, for example) are including a tube of green anaerobic locking compound; to assure the thing doesn't work loose.

I don't see the need on GMT360/370. I used lube on my Trailblazer control arms, too.
Trailblazer_Ball_Joints_16.jpg

Any lube is better than no lube--but a high-pressure moly-based grease would be better on the pressure screw of the BJ press.
 
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First time one here of anyone using Delphi suspension pieces. Mind you, Delphi is not the same company as when it was owner by GM. We have had reports of fuel pump failures from them. Hope your LBJs last. Do report back either way.
I’m only putting about 5,000 miles a year but I’ll report back after a while either way.

So far they are great, much better than the 20yr old OEM with 155k on them… being greasable was a nice touch.
 
After 1+ yr the Delphi LBJ are still ok.

Just after I did the ball joints I also replaced both inner and outer tie rods with Delphi as well. Tie rods are also just fine.

(All parts were made in Turkey at that time)
 

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