Interment idle issue (only in drive)

[FloGrown]

I'm having a issue that I cannot figure out for the life of me. When I first start my 05 trailblazer LS the vehicle shakes/vibrates (mainly when the ac is on but has done it with ac off a few times) but after a little while it will go away and not come back till the next day or few hours later (always smooth while moving) once I've stopped driving. I have also had a problem with the trailblazer randomly shutting off out of no where it only happens when I'm at a stop and the vehicle is not moving never had a issue while driving seems like idling has a hard time keeping proper RPMs but only at certain times and this is what's killing my nothing is solid everything is internment. So I have done these things to try and resolve this issue with no success I throughly cleaned the throttle body, installed new iridium denso plugs, new cam sensor, thoroughly cleaned the cam actuator, used sea foam (vacuum and fuel), and switched/changed the oil to mobil 1 advanced full synthetic. I haven't changed the crank sensor and I have been told I need to do that ? I am getting a check engine light codes are P0014 intermittent exhaust (B) cam sensor over advanced timing (just replaced 1 month ago light is back) should I do the crank sensor to get rid of this ? and also getting P0526 fan speed circuit. Don't think the fan code is causing the shake just need to replace the clutch correct me if I'm wrong here ?

PS it's a 2005 Chevy trailblazer LS 4.2L I6 2wd with 100,235 miles aside from this the truck drives perfect no misfires, smooth running when this issue isn't present and great vehicle just can't figure this out please please please any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Matt]

Did you disconnect the battery when you cleaned the throttle body? You may also find that the only plugs that are recommended to be use on our I6's are AC Delco 41-103's.

For some reason the I6 doesn't like other kinds of plugs, iridium or not.

 

[FloGrown]

Yea disconnected the battery for 30 mins and I've been about 500+ miles since the reset. I actually tried the AC Delco iridium plugs first and had the same issue. But I seem to have a little more power with these I was referred to these plugs by a user on a trailblazer forum he said he uses them and they have been great in his truck. So far aside from this issue it's been the same here

 

[FloGrown]

Is there a special why of setting these coils that I may be doing wrong ? It's interment so I wouldn't think that's the issue unless it's just a little off ? I was told even without a sea light the crank sensor should be replaced since the cam sensor has been done and that could be my problem ?

 

[FloGrown]

Ses light auto correct lol

 

[The_Roadie]

Crank sensor doesn't need replacing. Who's telling you this?

There are no other competent trailblazer forums out there. The couple of folks who stayed behind at trailvoy when we all moved here in 2011, are FAMOUS for giving bad advice.

I would pop in a new CPAS. Cleaning sometimes doesn't solve the problem.

Most likely your cam SENSOR was OK as well. The code was telling you the cam timing was incorrectly advanced, but that's not the sensor's fault usually, it's the SOLENOID what actually does the moving that's the problem. That's the CPAS.

 

[FloGrown]

Yea it was trailvoy lol I didn't know they were done with tell I was advised to come here by a trailvoy member but think you I really appreciate the advice I'm gonna try that tomorrow should I do a PCM reset after replacing it ? Or is that not involve a reset ? Thank you I really appreciate the advice

 

[IllogicTC]

Improper oil weight or oil quantity may affect P0014. Worst case scenario would be having to replace the actuator, this is a last-resort option when all other things have been proven to be working properly.

My first suspect would also be the CPAS. Sub-hundred dollar part, even through a stealership usually. First remove and inspect screens again. Check if the "outer-half" (the part that sticks out of the cylinder head) and the "inner-half" (with the holes) are able to turn independently; if so, it's replacement time. Check for oil in the connector socket, if present, replace. Measure the resistance at the CPAS connector - I can't recall an exact resistance, but 8-14 ohms should be fairly good. Very low resistance, or very high resistance, both warrant further examination and possible replacement.

It should also be noted that it is possible to remove the valve slide by using a hex key on the end of the CPAS to remove the end cap (it's actually a cap, just flush-mounted!) where you also have access to the interior of the screens. I cannot comment on if this is a good idea or not as I've not seen a guinea pig (I mean, DIYer) yet who's posted success or failure on such a deep-cleaning.

 

[FloGrown]

Gotcha i will give it a really good cleaning tomorrow and see if that helps it was pretty bad when I clean it so maybe I didn't get everything. I did just change the oil over to Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic but I went by specs for oil weight amount etc and truck doesn't leak a single drop or burn so it's still at the correct level now I'm gonna give it a couple goes with the CPAS and see what I get out of it I'll let you know what my outcome is