Tool Talk
- Thread starter IllogicTC
- Start date
I thought all of Snap-On's tools were lifetime warranty? What a ripoff! My son, who is just starting out as a heavy diesel equipment tech, is trying to stay away from the tools trucks and buying whatever is on sale biut some specialty stuff he may not have a choice. Unfortunately we don't have HF here but some of Princess Auto's stuff like Pro Point is good stuff. Their Power Fist brand is like the old HF Chinese crap.
As pretty as their stuff is, I could never really justify the exorbitant prices of Snap-on tools, even when it was my employer's money...
Spotted this TPMS tool on FB Marketplace. He was asking $140, offered $120 and I picked it up right away. A really good deal for such a tool. It was practically brand new with the protective film on the screen and wires still wrapped. Updated it to 2018 as it still had the original 2015 programming.
Haven't had a chance to try it yet but it's more robust than the $20 Amazon relearn tool. It can read the PSI, ID code, battery and it can tell you if it's the proper sensor for your vehicle, which is what I may have right now on the TB. Also has a key fob tester
Haven't had a chance to try it yet but it's more robust than the $20 Amazon relearn tool. It can read the PSI, ID code, battery and it can tell you if it's the proper sensor for your vehicle, which is what I may have right now on the TB. Also has a key fob tester
I saw this Amazing Dual Set of Milwaukee 12VDC Battery Powered Tools with Two Batteries, One Charger and One Tool Carry Bag on Sale for $99.00 via this Link and Pulled The Trigger to BUY THEM:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=392122551172
I also had previously purchased a Milwaukee M18 FUEL Model# 2767-22 Impact Driver Kit back in February of 2019 ... which included The Brush-less Compact Impact Power Tool, Two 5 Amp Hour Batteries, One Multi-Battery Charger … AND THIS HAS THE CHARGER THAT CAN HANDLE BOTH THE 18VDC BATTERIES AND THE 12VDC BATTERIES MENTIONED ABOVE.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=323800419682
This Powerful Tool was the ONLY means that worked to Unwind an Impacted “Jesus Bolt” from a Nissan Quest 3.5L Crankshaft-Harmonic Balancer after I broke an assortment of other Tools ...including another 24VDC Impact Tool that Failed Miserably. THIS Damned thing took that Bolt out like it was Made of BUTTER!
BUT... BE CAREFUL WITH THIS BAD BOY....!!!
Staring with this 1/2" Milwaukee M18 Impact Gun... Here are some more Real World Tool Evaluations by our Canadian Buddy, Rick DeBoss:
Because of the 20 Image Limit for Uploading and the difficulties with the server accepting these images I regularly try to Post Up here at GMTN… Please view these Un-Boxing and Display Images of ALL these Tools at the link below to my “Flickr-Bucket” Account:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/albums/72157708815664953
Regarding the latest purchase of the Two Small Hand Drivers… I LOVE THESE LITTLE GUYS! You can get the 1/4” Hex Driver into so many more tight spots and spaces and it has MORE than enough Torque and Power for speeding up the dis-assembly and re-assembly of things. The built-in Trigger activated Bright LED Light covers a a wide area, allowing for better views of where you are and what you are about to do with these Amazing Little Tools when tucked Downstairs in the Engine Well.
MILWAUKEE TOOLS ...FTW!
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=392122551172
I also had previously purchased a Milwaukee M18 FUEL Model# 2767-22 Impact Driver Kit back in February of 2019 ... which included The Brush-less Compact Impact Power Tool, Two 5 Amp Hour Batteries, One Multi-Battery Charger … AND THIS HAS THE CHARGER THAT CAN HANDLE BOTH THE 18VDC BATTERIES AND THE 12VDC BATTERIES MENTIONED ABOVE.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=323800419682
This Powerful Tool was the ONLY means that worked to Unwind an Impacted “Jesus Bolt” from a Nissan Quest 3.5L Crankshaft-Harmonic Balancer after I broke an assortment of other Tools ...including another 24VDC Impact Tool that Failed Miserably. THIS Damned thing took that Bolt out like it was Made of BUTTER!
BUT... BE CAREFUL WITH THIS BAD BOY....!!!
Staring with this 1/2" Milwaukee M18 Impact Gun... Here are some more Real World Tool Evaluations by our Canadian Buddy, Rick DeBoss:
Because of the 20 Image Limit for Uploading and the difficulties with the server accepting these images I regularly try to Post Up here at GMTN… Please view these Un-Boxing and Display Images of ALL these Tools at the link below to my “Flickr-Bucket” Account:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/albums/72157708815664953
Regarding the latest purchase of the Two Small Hand Drivers… I LOVE THESE LITTLE GUYS! You can get the 1/4” Hex Driver into so many more tight spots and spaces and it has MORE than enough Torque and Power for speeding up the dis-assembly and re-assembly of things. The built-in Trigger activated Bright LED Light covers a a wide area, allowing for better views of where you are and what you are about to do with these Amazing Little Tools when tucked Downstairs in the Engine Well.
MILWAUKEE TOOLS ...FTW!
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Okay… after watching Rich DeBoss’ “Real World, Rusted, Busted, Frozen-Seized Turbo-Charged & FUBARed Cummins Engine Tear Down using Milwaukee M-12 & M-18 Battery Powered Impact Tools” Video above on the Run Down of how the WHOLE range of the Milwaukee Brush-less M12 and M18 1.5 and 5.0 Amp Hour Battery Powered Impact Hand Tools worked… I decided to go to Amazon and look for the Milwaukee M-12 2553-20 1/4” Hex Driver Impact Gun Flavor since it was such a versatile member of the group that he was filming. Lo and Behold, they had the Damned Thing available (Gun Only) for $84.45 with Free, Same Day S&H.
Since I already have the Two 12 VDC Batteries and the Two Battery Chargers available… this was the less expensive route to take as usually, a Full Kit for this Impact Gun runs around $140.00 for the Gun, Battery & Charger. For now... This Buy rounds off the Full Set of Small “FUEL” M12 Tools for my pending projects. See the Amazon Link below and my “Glamour Shots” as well as maybe take another look at Rich’s Video shown above to see how well this Tiny Hand Tool worked for him.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZYMK1W/?tag=gmtnation-20
Since I already have the Two 12 VDC Batteries and the Two Battery Chargers available… this was the less expensive route to take as usually, a Full Kit for this Impact Gun runs around $140.00 for the Gun, Battery & Charger. For now... This Buy rounds off the Full Set of Small “FUEL” M12 Tools for my pending projects. See the Amazon Link below and my “Glamour Shots” as well as maybe take another look at Rich’s Video shown above to see how well this Tiny Hand Tool worked for him.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZYMK1W/?tag=gmtnation-20
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FYI anyone wanting a toolbox from Harbor Freight, they have the 40x22 rolling box on sale for $440 this month. If I had a house I'd be picking one up!
Forgot to make mention in Post #287 that with having such an array of 1/4" Hex Drive Milwaukee FUEL Battery Powered Impact Drivers... also having a VERY inexpensive FULL Set Of 1/4" Hex- to- 1/2", 3/8" & 1/4" Socket Adapters to toss into the Same Tool Bag is a MUST.
It is likely that you will NOT attempt to do any Really Serious Impact Fastener Removals as large as those requiring a 1/2" Impact Anvil for such Larger Sockets... but these Adapters will surely come in handy as 'Time Savers' if you need to Quickly "spin down" New Fittings and Fasteners.
This is the $9.00 from Amazon 1/4" Hex to Drill Socket Adapter Kit I picked up to work hand in glove with all of these Brush-less Impact Driver Tools. They have the Impact Grade Black Steel 1/4" Hex Shank to Square Socket Drill Bits on Bar Extensions and the Kit comes as an (8) Piece Set (Made by LnBirch):
It is likely that you will NOT attempt to do any Really Serious Impact Fastener Removals as large as those requiring a 1/2" Impact Anvil for such Larger Sockets... but these Adapters will surely come in handy as 'Time Savers' if you need to Quickly "spin down" New Fittings and Fasteners.
This is the $9.00 from Amazon 1/4" Hex to Drill Socket Adapter Kit I picked up to work hand in glove with all of these Brush-less Impact Driver Tools. They have the Impact Grade Black Steel 1/4" Hex Shank to Square Socket Drill Bits on Bar Extensions and the Kit comes as an (8) Piece Set (Made by LnBirch):
Drill Socket Adapter for Impact Driver with Hex Shank to Square Socket Drill Bits Bar Extension set 8 Pieces by LnBirch - - Amazon.com
Drill Socket Adapter for Impact Driver with Hex Shank to Square Socket Drill Bits Bar Extension set 8 Pieces by LnBirch - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
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Anyone have any good recommendations on a set of ramps that can be used on a smooth garage floor that won't shoot out from under the vehicle? I picked up some Rhino Ramps from AA on the way home, they were $10 off, and they are horrible. When you get halfway up the ramps, your tires roll off that little rubber floor gripper, so the ramps go torpedoing off, and the whole front end drops.
Maybe on a rougher, concrete driveway, these might work, but definitely not for inside the garage.
Maybe on a rougher, concrete driveway, these might work, but definitely not for inside the garage.
I bought a nice set of steel ramps at Napa that are USA made for about $70. Unlike the HF ones they are braced so they won't spread.
My floor is power troweled so it's super smooth, I put them on pieces of 1/4" plywood so that your front wheels are on the wood before they touch the ramps that are also on the wood, works for me.
My floor is power troweled so it's super smooth, I put them on pieces of 1/4" plywood so that your front wheels are on the wood before they touch the ramps that are also on the wood, works for me.
I've seen some that are made of recycled rubber. A bit heavy but I don't think they'd move. I've also seen some that allows you to remove the ramp part once it's up so it's not in the way. Made of plastic though and may have the same problems.
I have two sets of old steel ramps that I've been using forever. Can't beat them but can sink into asphalt. Easily remedied with pieces of wood.
I have two sets of old steel ramps that I've been using forever. Can't beat them but can sink into asphalt. Easily remedied with pieces of wood.
Theres an easy way to stop the ramps from skipping out across the garage floor. What I have done is gone to a salvage yard, looked for a mid 90's Crown Vic or Caprice, and pull the front seat belts out to their full lock, and cut the seat belts off right at the base of the real, and unbolt where it connects at the other end. Use the bolted end and attach it to your ramp. Then when you go to use the ramps you simply unroll the seat belt out so that it is under the rear wheel as you drive up, and this will hold it in place. The seat belt is low enough profile that a creeper will still roll over it no problem. You could also use rope, but its not very easy to get your creeper to roll across.
The seat belt also stops (for the most part) sockets, nuts and bolts, from running off while you are under the car.
The seat belt also stops (for the most part) sockets, nuts and bolts, from running off while you are under the car.
Wider bucket seats so the seat belt has further to reach. Even some of those old school caddi's work. I try not to get those personally, someone is always trying to restore one.
EDIT: If you find one of those big body 80's/90's 2 door Olds/Buick/Chevy/Cadi/Pontiac, They have the longest seat belts since they anchor in from the B-Pillar, which is almost at the rear seat. It would likely be the ones I look for if you had a EXT/XL/XUV.
EDIT: If you find one of those big body 80's/90's 2 door Olds/Buick/Chevy/Cadi/Pontiac, They have the longest seat belts since they anchor in from the B-Pillar, which is almost at the rear seat. It would likely be the ones I look for if you had a EXT/XL/XUV.
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If you're yard or property has been affected by the path of Hurricane Dorian with Tree Debris and other similar foliage like the Florida Sable Palms that resist cutting and trimming back with the usual Yard Shears... THIS Tool is well worth the $73.00 Fee as a very fast and Effective means of cutting off Tree Limbs and cutting down Trees up to around 4" thick.
"FROM PERSONAL TOOL USE AND OWNER EXPERIENCE..."
What I like about this Tool is that it is more like a "Tyrannosaurus Rex Lopper" than an Alligator Cutter... and it is VERY Safe because it requires using BOTH hands to activate the Chain Saw Motor handle Switches. This feature prevents accidentally having your hands and fingers getting in the way when reaching down near the Tool to pull off and out any Cuttings by unwittingly turning on the Electric Motor and Chain Saw Drive. The other aspect is that the entire areas the Chain Teeth can reach are nested inside of BOTH Upper and Lower Aluminum Housing Jaws. It cuts through ANYTHING that fits inside of it... Like Butter... ( @Blkshdw might appreciate having one of these right about now...)
So if likewise, you have to “Battle Nature” Back with any similar, constant invading undergrowth and yet Do NOT want to have to wrangle around with the Problems and Safety issue of using either a tiresome, quite often ineffective Long Handled Pair of Pruning Sheers or even resort to using either a Heavy, 2 Cycle or Large Electric Chain Saw… Black & Decker has a “Two Handed” Tool Solution that will strike a happy medium.… and for less than $73.00 in the Corded Flavor and $132.00 for the version that that includes a 20 Volt Battery.
The attached Videos show these Tools in real World Action and they did convince me to get one of these right away in order to be able to make a path into the otherwise inaccessible areas of my yard that have since been conquered and taken over by this Damned Tree Growth:
Corded Demonstration:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BANMUY/?tag=gmtnation-20
Battery Powered Demonstration:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZW9ZL8/?tag=gmtnation-20
"FROM PERSONAL TOOL USE AND OWNER EXPERIENCE..."
What I like about this Tool is that it is more like a "Tyrannosaurus Rex Lopper" than an Alligator Cutter... and it is VERY Safe because it requires using BOTH hands to activate the Chain Saw Motor handle Switches. This feature prevents accidentally having your hands and fingers getting in the way when reaching down near the Tool to pull off and out any Cuttings by unwittingly turning on the Electric Motor and Chain Saw Drive. The other aspect is that the entire areas the Chain Teeth can reach are nested inside of BOTH Upper and Lower Aluminum Housing Jaws. It cuts through ANYTHING that fits inside of it... Like Butter... ( @Blkshdw might appreciate having one of these right about now...)
So if likewise, you have to “Battle Nature” Back with any similar, constant invading undergrowth and yet Do NOT want to have to wrangle around with the Problems and Safety issue of using either a tiresome, quite often ineffective Long Handled Pair of Pruning Sheers or even resort to using either a Heavy, 2 Cycle or Large Electric Chain Saw… Black & Decker has a “Two Handed” Tool Solution that will strike a happy medium.… and for less than $73.00 in the Corded Flavor and $132.00 for the version that that includes a 20 Volt Battery.
The attached Videos show these Tools in real World Action and they did convince me to get one of these right away in order to be able to make a path into the otherwise inaccessible areas of my yard that have since been conquered and taken over by this Damned Tree Growth:
Corded Demonstration:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BANMUY/?tag=gmtnation-20
Battery Powered Demonstration:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZW9ZL8/?tag=gmtnation-20
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Decided to give my HF ramps a quick test in the garage when I got home today. These performed WAY better than the Rhino Gear ramps from Advance Auto. The rubber feet gripped the smooth concrete like you'd expect/hope. I rolled halfway up the ramp, stopped and let off the gas so the truck rolled back some, before gassing it again to go up, a couple of times to see how well they stayed in place.
The driver's side ramp did scoot about an inch after the second push/stop combo, where the Rhino Gear ramps torpedoed out from under the truck as soon as my forward momentum stopped the first time, letting the front end pull a Maggie Simpson, and fall on it's face.
So the 1st impression is a good one, hopefully I won't need to use them for a while. (it's too damn hot!)
The driver's side ramp did scoot about an inch after the second push/stop combo, where the Rhino Gear ramps torpedoed out from under the truck as soon as my forward momentum stopped the first time, letting the front end pull a Maggie Simpson, and fall on it's face.
So the 1st impression is a good one, hopefully I won't need to use them for a while. (it's too damn hot!)
Had been eyeing the 30" 5 drawer tool carts from HF for a while and was planning on buying one around Christmas for myself to go along with my promotion that's scheduled for January (finally). But oh, look, $30 off email coupon rolled in and I couldn't resist. Even had the color I wanted! Will eventually snag the matching folding side table to put on too.
Loaded more than half of my hand tools into it and still have tons of room left, I'm a happy camper. Just means I need to buy more tools!
Loaded more than half of my hand tools into it and still have tons of room left, I'm a happy camper. Just means I need to buy more tools!
I'd need something like that so I can roll out my most used tools to the work with my large main box for the less used and specialty tools. I have a cart but that doesn't do it for me.
I was thinking the same thing. I have a lot of stuff that rarely gets used, and sometimes it's a pain sifting through that stuff, looking for things. Not to mention the back and forth from the truck to the corner of the garage. I need to clear out more space though, move some of that stuff to the shed. I am also realizing I need one of those little rolling stools to sit on. Definitely need to invest in one of those!
Just watch out for the weight rating. Ask me how I know.
(I'm not saying you're big though
)
All good, I've heard of some things breaking when subjected to loads well under their weight limits, so I'd want something sturdy for sure.
Since we're talking HF stools, I have the round one (red seat, height adjustable, 5 wheels, has round tool tray under the seat.)
It has served me well for the last few years, except for one thing - the wheels. Take some time to redo the fasteners, and it should be ok. If one of them comes off, it becomes very tip-prone. And I'm within the weight limit for it, but not by a significant amount.
It has served me well for the last few years, except for one thing - the wheels. Take some time to redo the fasteners, and it should be ok. If one of them comes off, it becomes very tip-prone. And I'm within the weight limit for it, but not by a significant amount.
I'm over limit on everything, both weight and height, so I'm always taking my life into my own hands and trusting whatever I'm using might hold up.
I had to replace several of the casters on my Craftsman creeper maybe 6 years back. Not sure what happened there, cuz a lot of times I don't use it, just so I don't have to jack up the truck to get under it, and I don't abuse it when I do use it. Got a cheap set off Ebay, and they've held up without any issues.
I actually have 2 creepers; both HF low-profile jobs. Had a Craftsman, but wasn't as good. On the HF ones, they'll stress fatigue and eventually crack if I put too much weight in the middle (e.g.; leaning to get up)
The gray ones seem to be slightly better constructed (my red one is now used as a rolling tool tray for underneath, since it can't hold / roll me any longer.) Wish I could find one better than the injection molded thermoplastic ones that HF sells. But they get the job done (like @Blckshdw , I'll skip raising the truck / using the creeper if I can get under (quick oil change, etc.)
I also have a thick floor pad I picked up at Costco; ostensibly, it was for kitchens, but works well both to lie on and kneel on. A great $20 purchase, considering.
The gray ones seem to be slightly better constructed (my red one is now used as a rolling tool tray for underneath, since it can't hold / roll me any longer.) Wish I could find one better than the injection molded thermoplastic ones that HF sells. But they get the job done (like @Blckshdw , I'll skip raising the truck / using the creeper if I can get under (quick oil change, etc.)
I also have a thick floor pad I picked up at Costco; ostensibly, it was for kitchens, but works well both to lie on and kneel on. A great $20 purchase, considering.
I've been using a leftover Uhaul cardboard box that my sister left behind. Dual purpose of something to lay/scoot on, and to catch fluid drips for less cleanup. It got it's life expectancy greatly reduced by the recurring transmission trials and errors of the past month.
When I bought my house, I had the grand plan to epoxy the garage floor, so not only did it look nice, but spills could be wiped up easily without staining the concrete. But I've got chips and cracks everywhere that would have to get filled first, and couldn't get to all that between closing, and the time I moved out of my rental. I've been looking at the RaceDeck/GarageTrac interlocking tiles. It'll be a little pricey to do the whole garage, but I could start with just the side I park on if I wanted, and expand later. Their website lets you put in the dimensions of your space, and then make custom patterns with the different styles and colors of tile. Takes a lot of the extra work from getting a sheet of graphing paper, and sketching stuff out yourself, or doing photochops.
RaceDeck Garage Floors | DIY Garage Floor Tiles | Made In USA
Garage flooring for showrooms, shops, & home garages. Reclaim your garage today. Our modular garage floor tiles are easy to install & are made to last.
designer.racedeck.com
Your knees /body will thank you. 
Only issue I see with the tiles is keeping them connected/ fastened together as a unit, if you want to move it around. I have similar ones under one of my closets... er, treadmill...
As for the mat I bought... I had one in my kitchen, bought the second one for the same room, and then #2 never made it out of the garage...
Only issue I see with the tiles is keeping them connected/ fastened together as a unit, if you want to move it around. I have similar ones under one of my closets... er, treadmill...
As for the mat I bought... I had one in my kitchen, bought the second one for the same room, and then #2 never made it out of the garage...
Ideally, I would have the tiles setup wall to wall. Truck is on one side, laundry plus shelves where I keep fluids and stuff is on the other. So there have been drips and spills pretty much everywhere over the years. Only time I'd consider moving them, is if I was moving out of the house, so as long as those locking tabs are as reliable as designed, everything should stay put.
A Thousand Thanks to @Mounce for Post# 298 Tussen Takke...!
I just watched this excellent side-by-side comparison Video between the US General Series 2 Cart he is wisely recommending vs. the Snap-On Blue Point Version ...with very remarkable advantages with the HF version for around $700 LESS:
I'm pulling the trigger on the Red Color version of this Roll-Around Cart and getting the optional $29.00 Piano Hinged Side Tray and the Magnetic paper Towel Dispenser for $11.99 as well today... My "Lower Back" will very much appreciate having this great set up for all of the work pending on my Y2K Silverado!
EDIT 09/29/2019:
During the Un-Boxing and subsequent Assembly of this Excellent Tool Cabinet... I discovered that there were an insufficient number of M8 Lock Nuts (13MM Hex Head) to complete the construction of the frame. But rather than go through the usual rigmarole of contacting HF and requesting any assistance with Replacement Parts Fulfillment... I decided to poke around on Amazon and see if they had a ready solution (Stateside, USA).
I located a superb Stainless Steel Lock Nut Kit that included a VERY NICE assortment of these fasteners after using one of the HF Factory M8 Short Bolts and Threading it down inside of an M8 X1.0 X 12MM TIME-SERT Insert. The fit within the mated Thread-Lines was PERFECT... so I ordered the kit which included (15) M8 S/S Lock-Nuts for just under $15.00 with FREE S&H. The Kit arrived in (3) Days. You can NEVER have enough fasteners of ALL Shapes, Sizes and Flavors around... and for the Money... THIS Kit turned out to be an Exceptional Bargain and a REAL Handy Solution:
One Last Word of Caution Here...
Having had a life-changing experience back in 2015 that resulted in getting a Crippling Back Injury that happened while working under my 2002 Trailblazer, I can speak with some sincere authority when suggesting this:
if you have a Hydraulic Engine Hoist-Lift in your Garage... Don't hesitate to USE IT when assembling this Tool Cart!
Employ that device when lifting up the Cabinet using some evenly spaced Nylon Straps (with Drawers installed and LOCKED) and then carefully lower it into place in between the four corners of the Unsteady Tool Cart Frame.
Barring that... Be Clever...and Safe... and indulge some Help from a Friend in pairing up to lift this Very Heavy and Cumbersome Thing and then lower it slowly down within the Rectangular Framing on the Roll-Around Cart. Take my word for it... THIS is REALLY Good Advice for ANYONE of ANY Age and with ANY Strength Level to consider ...because indulging the Alternative Solo Method may leave you Badly Injured ...and living with much regret.
I just watched this excellent side-by-side comparison Video between the US General Series 2 Cart he is wisely recommending vs. the Snap-On Blue Point Version ...with very remarkable advantages with the HF version for around $700 LESS:
I'm pulling the trigger on the Red Color version of this Roll-Around Cart and getting the optional $29.00 Piano Hinged Side Tray and the Magnetic paper Towel Dispenser for $11.99 as well today... My "Lower Back" will very much appreciate having this great set up for all of the work pending on my Y2K Silverado!
EDIT 09/29/2019:
During the Un-Boxing and subsequent Assembly of this Excellent Tool Cabinet... I discovered that there were an insufficient number of M8 Lock Nuts (13MM Hex Head) to complete the construction of the frame. But rather than go through the usual rigmarole of contacting HF and requesting any assistance with Replacement Parts Fulfillment... I decided to poke around on Amazon and see if they had a ready solution (Stateside, USA).
I located a superb Stainless Steel Lock Nut Kit that included a VERY NICE assortment of these fasteners after using one of the HF Factory M8 Short Bolts and Threading it down inside of an M8 X1.0 X 12MM TIME-SERT Insert. The fit within the mated Thread-Lines was PERFECT... so I ordered the kit which included (15) M8 S/S Lock-Nuts for just under $15.00 with FREE S&H. The Kit arrived in (3) Days. You can NEVER have enough fasteners of ALL Shapes, Sizes and Flavors around... and for the Money... THIS Kit turned out to be an Exceptional Bargain and a REAL Handy Solution:
Amazon.com: HVAZI 205pcs Metric M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 Stainless Steel Nylon Hex Lock Nut Assortment Kit: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: HVAZI 205pcs Metric M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 Stainless Steel Nylon Hex Lock Nut Assortment Kit: Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
One Last Word of Caution Here...
Having had a life-changing experience back in 2015 that resulted in getting a Crippling Back Injury that happened while working under my 2002 Trailblazer, I can speak with some sincere authority when suggesting this:
if you have a Hydraulic Engine Hoist-Lift in your Garage... Don't hesitate to USE IT when assembling this Tool Cart!
Employ that device when lifting up the Cabinet using some evenly spaced Nylon Straps (with Drawers installed and LOCKED) and then carefully lower it into place in between the four corners of the Unsteady Tool Cart Frame.
Barring that... Be Clever...and Safe... and indulge some Help from a Friend in pairing up to lift this Very Heavy and Cumbersome Thing and then lower it slowly down within the Rectangular Framing on the Roll-Around Cart. Take my word for it... THIS is REALLY Good Advice for ANYONE of ANY Age and with ANY Strength Level to consider ...because indulging the Alternative Solo Method may leave you Badly Injured ...and living with much regret.
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Just loaded every tool I own in it and the baby still glides across the floor. 
I also have the grey HF creeper and it's also been great for the year plus that I've owned it. Same goes for the big yellow 3ton Daytona lo-pro (snap on copy) jack. When I read that HF was sued over the jack for being almost an exact copy of the snap on I was sold lol.
Not to mention y'all know I love my 1/2 earthquake xt impact. Oh and the 3/8 cordless earthquake impact is a stout contender as well! Their 12v ratchet is so - so, that's one that I regret not getting a big name brand. But everything else I'm pleased with.
I also have the grey HF creeper and it's also been great for the year plus that I've owned it. Same goes for the big yellow 3ton Daytona lo-pro (snap on copy) jack. When I read that HF was sued over the jack for being almost an exact copy of the snap on I was sold lol.
Not to mention y'all know I love my 1/2 earthquake xt impact. Oh and the 3/8 cordless earthquake impact is a stout contender as well! Their 12v ratchet is so - so, that's one that I regret not getting a big name brand. But everything else I'm pleased with.
Man... wish I had a garage big enough to work on my truck in. The vette barely fits in mine lol.
As for weight ratings, my rolling chair is 1/4 inch box steel and about twice my age... shit doesn't even move with dad on it. And as far as weight limits are concerned... gm designs their vehicle seats to around 280 lbs. The back of dads seat sheared off in the sierra and that's how we found that out as per gm... oh and if I were to take a date for a ride in the vette we would probably be over the rated holding capacity for passengers. I think people just slap those on there for the hell of it lol.
As for weight ratings, my rolling chair is 1/4 inch box steel and about twice my age... shit doesn't even move with dad on it. And as far as weight limits are concerned... gm designs their vehicle seats to around 280 lbs. The back of dads seat sheared off in the sierra and that's how we found that out as per gm... oh and if I were to take a date for a ride in the vette we would probably be over the rated holding capacity for passengers. I think people just slap those on there for the hell of it lol.
You really need to talk to someone who has done this. Aside from the aesthetics of the system I can think of a lot of potential problems and yes, it is expensive.
I considered this but, instead had my old garage floor busted out and power troweled with a trench drain system so I can wash off muddy/salty, cars/trucks /equipment with no problem. I feel the snap down floor thing is kind of a bandaid approach but, that's just me....probably great as they show it, being the floor in a classic car storage building.
I'm thinking that on this plastic floor:Please share your thoughts, I'd like to hear them
>You wouldn't want to use ramps,jacks,etc.
>No fabrication like welding,torch work,etc.
>If you happen to have a major spill of oil, gas,etc. (I've done it) do you now tear up the floor to do a proper cleaning?
> Critters might find a home under there ( only applies to tropical climates
).> I have no direct knowledge here but, with the wavy nature of concrete floors I would think that it might be noisy and feel like walking on a magic carpet.
The ramps have a much larger contact patch than the tires do, so I think those would be fine. Jacks and stands could be an issue, concentrating the load in a smaller footprint. Scrap plywood or sheet metal underfoot would probably be good enough to distribute the weight. See folks do that on asphalt and unpaved surfaces a lot. Don't own any welding gear or torches (yet), but I suppose you could throw a welding blanket down under whatever you were working on. 
I usually take precautions for big spills, just to avoid potential headaches with cleanup. Used to use a tarp before I moved into this house, it's around here somewhere... But I've enjoyed a leftover 6" tall section of a blue rain barrel that was left behind. That bad boy catches everything!! lol So my cleanups are usually pretty small. Drips and drops here and there. But yeah, if a gallon jug of something was left open, and got kicked over, that would make for a very bad day.
Not worried about bugs. When I treat the exterior of the house, I always do the interior perimeter of the garage too. So anything that made its way under there, wouldn't be around for very long. I think I could live with anything caused by some unevenness of the garage floor. Between the laundry, AC unit, air compressor, HV fan and tools that are running at any given time that I'm in there, squeaking tiles from movement wouldn't bother me. I did see one review from someone that put these in their laundry room, and said it was noisy.
All great points though, and good things to take into consideration. Appreciate the input.
I usually take precautions for big spills, just to avoid potential headaches with cleanup. Used to use a tarp before I moved into this house, it's around here somewhere... But I've enjoyed a leftover 6" tall section of a blue rain barrel that was left behind. That bad boy catches everything!! lol So my cleanups are usually pretty small. Drips and drops here and there. But yeah, if a gallon jug of something was left open, and got kicked over, that would make for a very bad day.
Not worried about bugs. When I treat the exterior of the house, I always do the interior perimeter of the garage too. So anything that made its way under there, wouldn't be around for very long. I think I could live with anything caused by some unevenness of the garage floor. Between the laundry, AC unit, air compressor, HV fan and tools that are running at any given time that I'm in there, squeaking tiles from movement wouldn't bother me. I did see one review from someone that put these in their laundry room, and said it was noisy.
All great points though, and good things to take into consideration. Appreciate the input.
The only other issues might be... Would any "sponginess" of the Rubber-Plastic Substrate prevent the easy motions of Heavy, Roll-Around Floor Jacks... and of course... Heavy, Moveable Tool-laden Chests...? 
My big tool chest doesn't get moved. It has power outlets, so a heavy gauge extension cord runs behind some appliances to one of the outlets behind the laundry. My Craftsman jack is old, and doesn't roll smoothly as it is, on the concrete. The big front wheels have surface rust on em. Sometimes I'll have to use a foot to help get it where I want it. Plus it doesn't hold pressure for very long, very good example of why you should never rely on it to support a load instead of jack stands. 
I've actually been looking at those air powered 20 ton hydraulic jacks as a future replacement, since it seems there aren't any repair kits to fix the seals on these. Would be nice to not be in a full sweat, before I even start working on the truck 8 months out of the year.
I've actually been looking at those air powered 20 ton hydraulic jacks as a future replacement, since it seems there aren't any repair kits to fix the seals on these. Would be nice to not be in a full sweat, before I even start working on the truck 8 months out of the year.