TBSS Rear

mikemas

mikemas

Member
Jul 25, 2014
35
I came across an 06 TBSS axle on craigslist (same year as mine, guy said about 100k on it and everything looked good with brakes and all). Im looking to go to 4.10 gears for bigger tires. My question for the more experienced is what would a good price on one be? He is asking 1000.
 
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I'm gonna see if he'll budge, if not I guess I'll probably let it go. Any decent online sites anybody uses for buying them and having them shipped?
 
i found mine on ebay after the local yard couldn't tell me if the rear they had was 10 or 14 bolt
 
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Next question which is spin off to the rear is would I be better off just buying a junk yard or CL front dif or can I just buy the 4.10 internals and put them into mine?
 
It is my understanding that you can get 4.11 gears for the 8.6" axle. I could not find anything for the 8" besides 3.73 gears. The ss gears only fit the 9.5" rear axle. But there is more to that axle than the carrier and ring gear it has clutch packs on both sides. If you can't get an ss rear axle I would try to find an 8.6" 3.73 or 4.10 g80.
 
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I would have to say $1000 is a bit steep, especially with 100K miles. Keep in mind you will need to have your driveshaft shortened 1.5" which also includes a new u-joint. May also need seals, and one thing I would absolutely check, and this is for any SS axle you look at, is ensure the axle shafts aren't bent. You can take the pinion yoke and turn it and watch the axle flange..see if it either has excessive runout or up and down movement...or flop for lack of better terms.

Axle shafts are a dealer item only and run about $250-300 per side.
 
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I'd like to learn regearing so that's why I was considering doing regear in the front rather than a swap. Regarding the back I might be able to get the SS axle for 600 which is still kinda high it seems but it is local and I'm not blindly getting one shipped to me so that's always nice. He told me he really wants to get rid of it so we'll see. I thought I remembered reading about the drive shaft needing to be shortened, thanks for reminding me about that. I have the massive adjustable rear control arms but I'd imagine 1.5 inches would be pushing it a bit on those if even possible. I'm already planning this to take a couple months worth of getting everything setup and ready so I'd really like to start to get the ball rolling with it. I'm planning to do the swap and regear, body lift, wheels, tires, retune all together so it's like one big project knocked out of the way instead of doing it in pieces.
 
I've started looking in my region for SS front and rear assemblies. So far between 400-600 has been the norm for high mileage units. We have some really decent parts yards in the area, but i'm still in the planning stages.

I just don't want a 3.42 non-lock diff anymore. I should've gotten an SS when I had a chance.
 
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I got the 3.42 g80 rear right now but it's time for that to go bye bye. I wanna go to 33s and a real locker.
 
For a real locker you need to swap the SS carrier out. It is limited slip.

Setting up gears is not terrible, but needs patience and a few tools many do not have.
 
That was my intent, just dunno what I'm gonna do for locker yet. I still need to dig further into that. I figured I'd take my time with this project and use it as an opportunity to learn.
 
I did a lock right in my 14 bolt.

Will need shortened driveshaft and adaptor joint. 446 I think
 
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Its been a few years. Plus I gave away my spare. But thanks for link so I can pick another up!
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
I did a lock right in my 14 bolt.

Will need shortened driveshaft and adaptor joint. 446 I think
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I've been reading up about the Detroit locker, soft lock and trutrac but I still need to read up further and educate myself better before I make the decision on what I want to put in it. How was the streetability of the lock right IYO? I'm new to this stuff so.
 
I like it. They are noisy and click when cornering, but lock-up with throttle application just like you want. I do not mind the clicking at all but that is me. All lockers have their idiosyncrasies. I had a Detroit in another vehicle and hated it. It would stay locked and scrub tires something fierce. It snapped all the studs on my one axle shaft at a tight corner and 5 mph. It definitely was LOCKED at all times.

No experience with others mentioned.
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
I like it. They are noisy and click when cornering, but lock-up with throttle application just like you want. I do not mind the clicking at all but that is me. All lockers have their idiosyncrasies. I had a Detroit in another vehicle and hated it. It would stay locked and scrub tires something fierce. It snapped all the studs on my one axle shaft at a tight corner and 5 mph. It definitely was LOCKED at all times.

No experience with others mentioned.
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Shoot I'm definitely not looking to snap wheels off but at least you know it worked lol. I'll check into the lock right. From what I've read it seems everyone eventually learns them and adjust their driving habits to them for the most part. A lot of people have said the Detroit locker is terrible to drive on the street but there are a couple that liked theirs, I'm sure it's over kill for me though. From what I've read about the soft locker is that with the right driving you don't even know it's there. It's to my understanding that the longer the wheel base the easier lockers are too drive with and that automatic transmissions make them easier to drive with as well.
 
FYI- My Burban had the Detroit. It is long and auto.
 
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If you are interested. OK if you aren't. When I bought a used engine it came with a 4.10 frt. diff.(according to the VIN) I removed it and used my 3.73. I think it's still out in the shed. I will check if you have an interest. I wouldn't want much for it but shipping heavy stuff from Canada is expensive. I have not inspected or tested it. Just post if you want me to look for it. I think it was around 70k (kilometeres).
 
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Wish I was closer... I want to Lincoln lock a 4.10 front.
 
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I'm all the way down in Texas, that would probably be a sucky shipping bill. If I were closer I'd say definitely.
 
If I got a rear TBSS axle assembly (I've found one in Lincoln and one in STL), would it matter which GMT model I got the 4.10 front diff from?
 
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