TB will not start. No sounds, solenoid etc.

bugeyed

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Joined
Dec 25, 2011
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78
OK, here is what I know so far. Hopefully someone will get a clue to what is going on.
Car will not turn over. No solenoid, but electrical is working. Batt good.
Here is what I have found.

Shifter will not unlock from park. Button won't push.

Pressed solenoid to release shifter, but when in park it locks again.

Dash indicator shows I am in R. Doesn't move when I move shifter.

Car rolls regardless of where shifter is.

Any clues?

Thanks,
kev
P.S. have not had a problem with this before. Drove it yesterday & parked it normally, I think???? Who knows.
 
sounds like maybe the plastic tab that goes from the shift cable to the transmission has cracked. This is a known issue on our truck. Try to go under the vehicle and make sure it is held with the parking brake or chocks and look next to the tranny. You should find a little black clip that secures to a metal rod next to the pan. That is where your shift cable connects to and sometimes breaks off at.
 
Dash shows R, so that is causing the lack of crank. If the solenoid is locked, I believe that you are not getting electrical with your shift interlock harness (wires which attach to that solenoid). My reasoning tells me that the place to start is electical (the wiring of your shift interlock). Perhaps someone has had this happen before, but that is my thought.
 
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kickass audio said:
sounds like maybe the plastic tab that goes from the shift cable to the transmission has cracked. This is a known issue on our truck. Try to go under the vehicle and make sure it is held with the parking brake or chocks and look next to the tranny. You should find a little black clip that secures to a metal rod next to the pan. That is where your shift cable connects to and sometimes breaks off at.
Definitely something to check which is easy to check visually.
 
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linneje said:
Dash shows R, so that is causing the lack of crank. If the solenoid is locked, I believe that you are not getting electrical with your shift interlock harness (wires which attach to that solenoid). My reasoning tells me that the place to start is electical (the wiring of your shift interlock). Perhaps someone has had this happen before, but that is my thought.
Would that explain why the display does not move from R when I move the shifter. Or why is rolls when the shifter is fully forward?
kev
 
OK, I am going to use some incorrect words to describe what I found. Where the cable from the shifter attaches to the arm coming out of the transmission is disconnected. I just felt around, but I don't see how it will stay on if I get it back on the post. What part am I going to have to replace to get it fixed. The plastic end of the cable seems OK, not cracked as I could see, but the tranny end doesn't feel right. Something was on that post that held the cable end in place. I need a diagram to know what is going on.
kev

edit, Looks like it's a shift linkage bushing kit is what I need???
 
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yupp, that is exactly what you need. that bushing for the shift linkage. Here is a video to show you a bit better what you need to do. Really easy procedure in all honesty.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnjRkIClV8Y

edit: If you find it that you can shove the shifter in park and can take the key out, you definitely have a broken linkage bushing. If you cannot remove the key from the ignition when in park, you may have an issue with the sensor that detects what gear your transmission is in. Highly doubt that is your problem though.

With how your linkage fell off, try to engage your parking brake and ensure it is holding your truck then get under it and see if you can slip the linkage on the arm that shifts your transmission. Otherwise with it in park, you will need to grab that little metal arm that shifts the transmission and move it forward (i believe that is the right direction to shift it into park but don't quote me on that) and slip the linkage on the arm.
 
Kickass is deadly accurate. It still could be a problem with the shift interlock after you repair the broken shift linkage. But you need to repair that bushing first. Someone here rigged up something temporary with a bolt and nut, if I recall, until they could get a bushing repair kit.
 
Well, no one in town has the bushing, so the dealer sold me a new cable assy. They don't do bushings. $80 bucks later I am on my way to install it. Several people I talked to said that replacing the cable is best as they have seen many of the aftermarket bushings fail quickly. It shouldn't be too hard to get it replaced & I will feel better about doing it right. I am just glad/lucky it happened in my driveway.
BTW Thanks to everyone who responded. This is exactly the quick response that's needed when a crisis occurs!
 
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linneje said:
Kickass is deadly accurate. It still could be a problem with the shift interlock after you repair the broken shift linkage. But you need to repair that bushing first. Someone here rigged up something temporary with a bolt and nut, if I recall, until they could get a bushing repair kit.
Yes, I think that was a member in Pakistan.
 
I found detailed instructions on that other site. I think they are from a factory manual or Chitlins. At any rate, it looks like a bit of a pain to get to the top side where it exits the cab. Have to pull the carpet, but I am committed now. Or maybe I'll be committed afterwards ;)
Hopefully I will not have to do this again for another 150,000 miles. I like some of the alternative methods for repair, but I don't want to wait for parts. I want it fixed NOW!!
 
OK, everything is in, but looking for any tips on adjusting the linkage cable length. Do I just put the shifter in park & make sure the tranny is in park (check the indicator in dash) & then get the cable to match up to the lever & lock it down?
THX,
kev
 
That sounds reasonable. I've not heard of anyone replacing the entire cable before. Good for you!
 
OK, hardest part was getting the cable through from the console, under the carpet & out to where it exits the cab. I have some tips, so I will put together my instructions & post later. Incdentally, I have an intermittent problem with my dash going out in a variety of ways. Today, after I got the cable in & went to check if it was indicating that the tranny was in park, the indicator had no marker. Then the gauges went off. After several restarts, the dash worked & all is good. This seems to happen if the car sits for a day or so. Not sure if that's totally true or just a red herring, but that's when it has failed before. I have checked grounds, but once it starts working, it works fine. I am reluctant to work on it when it's not failing. Anyway, except for the console reinstall, the TB is back to working & I learned something new.
Later,
kev
 
Try to check the resistance in the ground connection that is on the passenger side of the center console. It is behind that carpeted piece of plastic directly under the dash and has a few black wires going to it. That usually is what causes the cluster to freak out unless your clusters harness is having issues of its own.
 
I will check that next time it fails. The bolt is tight & I have cleaned the connector.
Thanks,
kev
 
linneje said:
Someone here rigged up something temporary with a bolt and nut, if I recall, until they could get a bushing repair kit.

Robbabob said:
Yes, I think that was a member in Pakistan.
I did it as well. Then I bought a $22 part that will never fail. The cable end will fail before this part fails.

http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/3170-transmission-shift-linkage/ for a thread on this.

This is the part I bought after using a nut and bolt for a few days. http://www.atfspeed.com/shop/chevy-kits/92-09-chevrolet-trailblazer-shifter-cable-repair-pin/
 

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