Refurbish 2009 Saab 9-7x Suspension

[Helikido]

Hi everyone.

I’m want to refurbish the front suspension of my 2009 Saab 97x 5.3i, using a quality kit. This is not including front struts, just the suspension components that should be changed after 100kish.

My steering feels a little loose with 130k miles.

My primary concern is is the suspension differences on the 2009 model year vs 2007 and earlier, I don’t want to get the wrong parts. Can someone elaborate on what the differences are? I’ve been scouring all over the forums and could not find what the differences are.

I’m planning on buying a “front end kit” from Rock Auto, but I’m not sure which is the correct one. The ball joints look different from each other in the kit, even though description is for the Saab 97x.

Here are the kit options:

1. Movotech 167 2009 TBSS Kit (potentially correct one?): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog....0l+v8,1442942,suspension,front+end+kit,15413
2. Movotech 10581 2009 Saab 97x kit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/saab,2009,9-7x,5.3l+v8,1443537,suspension,front+end+kit,15413
3. Moog 2009 Saab 97x kit: MOOG Kit460

Thanks!

 

[mrrsm]

saab suspension differences between the 2007 versus the 2009 Saab chassis at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

 

[Helikido]

saab suspension differences between the 2007 versus the 2009 Saab chassis at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

I mentioned in my post that I’ve been looking for this information everywhere and it’s not there. Your search did not specify the 97x chassis.

The first thing that showed up on your link was this thread. Looking for any info that can help, thanks.

 

[Mooseman]

All GMT360 suspension parts, minus the struts, are the same except for the front sway bar end links, which changed for 2008-09 to like these:

Some of those kits that include end links incorrectly have the first style, which are like this:

And absolutely stay away from anything from Mevotech (aka: Mevojunk).

 

[TequilaWarrior]

And a simple litmus test for the front sway bar:
attempt to place the open end of a 15mm wrench over the sway bar, if it goes on, it's a 14mm, if it doesn't, it's 16mm.

Sway bar bushings are often overlooked, replace them. They're cheap and easy to replace.
For simplicity's sake, control arm assemblies are the way to go (lower and upper) as pressing ball joints sucks. Also, replacing strut assemblies as a unit is unsettlingly easy if you ever replaced front springs or disassembled a strut.

If you're doing the front end, might as well do the rear sway bar links as well... not much cost, a little more effort. However, tried as I have over the years (several times) I have not managed to unbolt the rear sway bar bushing mounts. Mine are frozen fast.

 

[Mooseman]

And a simple litmus test for the front sway bar:
attempt to place the open end of a 15mm wrench over the sway bar, if it goes on, it's a 14mm, if it doesn't, it's 16mm.

I do believe you're talking about the outer tie rods. This was just an 02 thing where they changed the tie rods from 14mm to 16mm in later years.

 

[TequilaWarrior]

I do believe you're talking about the outer tie rods. This was just an 02 thing where they changed the tie rods from 14mm to 16mm in later years.

Oops... you're right... that's outer tie rods....

However, there are 2 sizes for front sway bar... 43.7mm and 45.7mm. Now I recall that I used a caliper to make sure I had the right ones as the bushings are not the same.

 

[Mooseman]

Yep, however it doesn't change anything for the end links, just the bushings. The bigger bars were on the LWB and V8 trucks.

 

[Helikido]

All GMT360 suspension parts, minus the struts, are the same except for the front sway bar end links, which changed for 2008-09 to like these:

Some of those kits that include end links incorrectly have the first style, which are like this:

And absolutely stay away from anything from Mevotech (aka: Mevojunk).

Thank you sir. I was actually hoping you would respond because according to many off and on forums you’re the one that knows it all here! So glad to finally hear from ya.

Do you have any recommendations on what brand or kit to use for my front suspension rebuild? Is MOOG a good brand? I appreciate it.

 

[Helikido]

And a simple litmus test for the front sway bar:
attempt to place the open end of a 15mm wrench over the sway bar, if it goes on, it's a 14mm, if it doesn't, it's 16mm.

Sway bar bushings are often overlooked, replace them. They're cheap and easy to replace.
For simplicity's sake, control arm assemblies are the way to go (lower and upper) as pressing ball joints sucks. Also, replacing strut assemblies as a unit is unsettlingly easy if you ever replaced front springs or disassembled a strut.

If you're doing the front end, might as well do the rear sway bar links as well... not much cost, a little more effort. However, tried as I have over the years (several times) I have not managed to unbolt the rear sway bar bushing mounts. Mine are frozen fast.

Good recommendation I do agree whole assemblies is better…saves time…and time is money. Plus less likelihood of damaging things doing it the hard way.

 

[Mooseman]

Whole strut assemblies are the easiest but not the best and try to satisfy everybody, which means a soft ride.

The go to around here is Bilstein but is a bare strut requiring you to remove and transfer the spring to the new strut. Hey, you haven't lived until you've taken one of these apart

 

[DIYguy]

Good recommendation I do agree whole assemblies is better…saves time…and time is money. Plus less likelihood of damaging things doing it the hard way.

Have you jacked up under the lower control arm to wiggle the tire and try to see which suspension part is the issue?

If it turns out to be only the tie rods then you might consider doing only that instead of the UBJ and LBJ which is either a lot more effort or else a lot more cash for whole assemblies.

Not trying to persuade you if you’ve already got your mind made up to do it all… it is nice to know that everything is new and should be fine for a while.

 

[Helikido]

Whole strut assemblies are the easiest but not the best and try to satisfy everybody, which means a soft ride.

The go to around here is Bilstein but is a bare strut requiring you to remove and transfer the spring to the new strut. Hey, you haven't lived until you've taken one of these apart

I did do it once on my G35 when I owned it. Never again will I ever do that again

What’s the best whole strut assembly for my Saab? I’m actually looking to lift it 2”, so roughly 1” higher than a stock trailblazer (Saab is 1” lowered I think). Looking for something that’ll keep driving dynamics comfortable and tight.

 

[Helikido]

Have you jacked up under the lower control arm to wiggle the tire and try to see which suspension part is the issue?

If it turns out to be only the tie rods then you might consider doing only that instead of the UBJ and LBJ which is either a lot more effort or else a lot more cash for whole assemblies.

Not trying to persuade you if you’ve already got your mind made up to do it all… it is nice to know that everything is new and should be fine for a while.

Car has 130k miles. I don’t want to keep working on it every Xk miles as each part wears out one by one. I’d rather just refresh the suspension and be good for the next 50k miles, it’s just cheaper that way.

 

[TollKeeper]

Do not... I repeat... DO NOT... Go with any strut that is a complete assembly.

I will grant you it saves time. But the spring rate is completely wrong.

The go to, as mentioned above, is the Bilstein. I went with the "quick strut" originally, and it damaged more on my truck because of the incorrect spring rate, and it actually lowered my truck because of it. I got lucky in that I still had my old struts, and was able to get new Bilstein struts,, and swap everything over. Remember to replace the upper strut bearing plate.

Beyond that, lower control arms and brackets with new bushings, upper control arms with new bushings, sway bar links, sway bar bushings (although they wont help with the front end feeling loose, just make it quieter), inner/outer tie rods if needed, upper and lower ball joints if needed.

I have yet to ever replace tie rods or stabilizer links. Mine are all still factory original, and still tight.

Also remember, rear control arms have bushings too, and can make it seem like the front end is loose. There are 5 separate arms in the rear, 2 on each side, and one that goes across.

Motor mounts will also make a world of difference, but are nearly impossible to do on the V8. I own a Envoy V8, and my prior vehicle was a 9-7x v8 like yours. What you may think is front end play behind the wheel, could be the motor shifting in its mounts, as they are worn out.

Stay away from Mevotech parts. No one has had any good luck out of them.

Moog, as of late, is not better than Mevotech. All outsourced parts, made by other parts suppliers (cheaply), Moog stamp applied, and overprice applied.

You could put a small lift on your truck, but would have to get the right kit. I dont know anything about them, other than one is the right kit, and one is referred to as the death kit.

You are going to think I am crazy, but I have had the best luck with lower control arm brackets with bushings, from AutoZone. But the price has gone up 150% since I bought them... I paid $62 for them years ago, and now they are over $160.

https://www.autozone.com/searchresult?searchText=lower%20control%20arm%20bracket

I would go with the control arm assemblies for a little bit more, as they come with the ball joint, although it is not greaseable without a needle zerk... A old friend of mine that works at AZ tells me they get them directly from the GM Supplier. But thats just hearsay

https://www.autozone.com/searchresult?searchText=lower%20control%20arm%20assembly

For the rear, you have your trailing arm (2), your control arm (2), and torque arm (1). I still need to do this job on my Envoy, but since the Envoy has been turned over to spare vehicle duty, its no longer on my priority list.

 

[Mooseman]

If you do go for bare struts like Bilsteins, you could get a shop to do the swap for you. Bring the old and new struts and they'll do it for a small fee.

Looking at RockAuto, I did find a complete assembly from ACDelco but out of stock. They are however listed for all GMT360 and all years so I have a feeling they are just rebadged aftermarket like Monroe.

For the lift, you could try a different spring. Probably the heaviest spring would be from a V8 Envoy XUV although aftermarket makers don't specify if LWB or SWB or even V8. Check through a dealership as there may be some stock left.

For the front lift, DO NOT use an over the strut spacer. They are known as death lifts and are not recommended. Unfortunately, since the demise of this series of trucks in 2009, there are no more aftermarket makers of on-spring spacers. You could check out our brother site for lifts:

offroadTB.com | Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

offroadtb.com

 

[Helikido]

Do not... I repeat... DO NOT... Go with any strut that is a complete assembly.

I will grant you it saves time. But the spring rate is completely wrong.

The go to, as mentioned above, is the Bilstein. I went with the "quick strut" originally, and it damaged more on my truck because of the incorrect spring rate, and it actually lowered my truck because of it. I got lucky in that I still had my old struts, and was able to get new Bilstein struts,, and swap everything over. Remember to replace the upper strut bearing plate.

Beyond that, lower control arms and brackets with new bushings, upper control arms with new bushings, sway bar links, sway bar bushings (although they wont help with the front end feeling loose, just make it quieter), inner/outer tie rods if needed, upper and lower ball joints if needed.

I have yet to ever replace tie rods or stabilizer links. Mine are all still factory original, and still tight.

Also remember, rear control arms have bushings too, and can make it seem like the front end is loose. There are 5 separate arms in the rear, 2 on each side, and one that goes across.

Motor mounts will also make a world of difference, but are nearly impossible to do on the V8. I own a Envoy V8, and my prior vehicle was a 9-7x v8 like yours. What you may think is front end play behind the wheel, could be the motor shifting in its mounts, as they are worn out.

Stay away from Mevotech parts. No one has had any good luck out of them.

Moog, as of late, is not better than Mevotech. All outsourced parts, made by other parts suppliers (cheaply), Moog stamp applied, and overprice applied.

You could put a small lift on your truck, but would have to get the right kit. I dont know anything about them, other than one is the right kit, and one is referred to as the death kit.

You are going to think I am crazy, but I have had the best luck with lower control arm brackets with bushings, from AutoZone. But the price has gone up 150% since I bought them... I paid $62 for them years ago, and now they are over $160.

https://www.autozone.com/searchresult?searchText=lower%20control%20arm%20bracket

I would go with the control arm assemblies for a little bit more, as they come with the ball joint, although it is not greaseable without a needle zerk... A old friend of mine that works at AZ tells me they get them directly from the GM Supplier. But thats just hearsay

https://www.autozone.com/searchresult?searchText=lower%20control%20arm%20assembly

For the rear, you have your trailing arm (2), your control arm (2), and torque arm (1). I still need to do this job on my Envoy, but since the Envoy has been turned over to spare vehicle duty, its no longer on my priority list.

Hey man thanks a lot I appreciate all of this info and advice!

For now I’m having a hard time deciding which parts from rockauto to use. There are many many brands. Are there any reliable daily suspension parts brands for this truck platform that won’t break the bank? I’m just looking for stuff that’s good for daily use. If I off-road i won’t be doing anything crazy.

The brands are: ACDELCO, TRW, Delphi, Movetech (bad), MOOG (bad). I’m not going to buy AutoZone parts, I’ve never had them last on my cars. They’ve always get cheap.

Sad to hear about the V8 mounts being so hard to do. Those were next on my list to get to.

For the struts, I’m planning on using the Bilstein 5100 adjustable struts for a 2” lift on my truck with the original springs. It’s widely used on the trailblazer and 4Runners. It seems like these types of struts are widely used across off-road modes and that gave me confidence in them. Def will replace the upper strut bearing, great recommendation.

If you do go for bare struts like Bilsteins, you could get a shop to do the swap for you. Bring the old and new struts and they'll do it for a small fee.

Looking at RockAuto, I did find a complete assembly from ACDelco but out of stock. They are however listed for all GMT360 and all years so I have a feeling they are just rebadged aftermarket like Monroe.

For the lift, you could try a different spring. Probably the heaviest spring would be from a V8 Envoy XUV although aftermarket makers don't specify if LWB or SWB or even V8. Check through a dealership as there may be some stock left.

For the front lift, DO NOT use an over the strut spacer. They are known as death lifts and are not recommended. Unfortunately, since the demise of this series of trucks in 2009, there are no more aftermarket makers of on-spring spacers. You could check out our brother site for lifts:

offroadTB.com | Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

offroadtb.com

I’ll have my local family mechanic work on the suspension.

What do you think about using my stock coils and the bilstein 5100 adjustable struts? They can give me a 2” lift according to them. I definitely will not use a spacer for the front.

Also any recommendations for an economical but good quality suspension brand to use for these trucks? Don’t wanna buy garbage but also don’t want top dollar fancy stuff on the daily.

Thank you both!