Low beams not working

[Dmflash]

I tried some LEDs my brother gave me but I couldn't fit them properly in the housing socket ,so I put my halogens back in.
Ever since my low beams haven't worked, but they do come on if I hit the unlock button on the fob
Has anyone ever encountered this issue ?

 

[NJTB]

There's a relay in the front fuse box, switch it with the same number relay next to it. If it works, replace the relay.

 

[Dmflash]

There's a relay in the front fuse box, switch it with the same number relay next to it. If it works, replace the relay.

If the relay was bad would the lights still come on when I hit the unlock button on the fob?

 

[NJTB]

Don't know.
I got stuck about 40 miles from home at night with no low beams. Remembered reading here about the low beam relay, popped the top of the underhood fuse box, looked at the location of the fuses on the pop off part of the fuse box, switched the relays and made it home. Worked by the phone flashlight.
Bought a relay next day.

 

[Roudter]

That's interesting. I was going through some of the settings in a Tech2 for my car and saw there were separate LED vs Incandescent PWM (pulse width modulation) settings. All that tells me is that there are settings and programming behind what seems to be simple things like lights.

Incandescing lights are 100% resistance and very easy to handle for the computer even if they use more power. LED lights, with their power supplies are 'reactive' having capacitive/inductive characteristics...Often the electronics just don't match well.

Your problem definitely could be a 'glitch' fixed by some sort of reset - if the fob is stock and the system hasn't been physically altered. (beyond the the LED installation - which didn't cut any wires, right?)

You might find help if you mentioned your vehicle's make/model/year. Sorry if i missed that. Good luck.

 

[mrrsm]

If you peruse this Diagram…


...You’ll notice there are (3) Distinct Grounds servicing this very complex Head Lamp Wiring, Fusing and Relay System:

(1) G107
(2) G103
(3) G108

These are three distinct contact points either between the Body or the Engine that share many other electrical components that can also have an affect upon each other… especially if ANY of the Three Grounds suffer from Poor Connections, Rust or Galvanic Corrosion.

These artifacts can Increase Resistance and invite Electrical Arcing and/or Create Excess Heat and Loss of Continuity on the Wiring to each of the High and Low Beam Headlights.

Suggest that you visit THIS Link to @Realism ‘s indelible contribution to GMT Nation with his collection and posting of the locations of ALL the GMT360 Ground and Bonding Strap Locations.

Use these Images to Locate, Unfasten, Clean Them ALL Down To Bare Metal, then Apply a Small Dollop of Dielectric Grease to discourage Galvanic Corrosion and Re-Attach them to restore "The Goodness" of ALL of these Grounds.

https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/electrical-ground-locations.15491/