Ignition won't start; just replaced ignition switch

Alansd

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Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Posts
102
My abs light and brake light came on, blower stopped working. I replaced the ignition switch as I was told this was the problem. Got it in without a hitch, put the covers back on and all.
Inserted the key - it turns then stops and there is no start function. It does turn back and forth and the lights all come on but the trans is locked in park and the stupid thing won't start at all.

Something is locked or?
please advise...not sure what to do here.
 
I disconnected the battery, and reconnected. Its almost new ...so it is no the problem. Seems like the key is turning to all the position right, it was fine before I replaced the ignition switch. Now the key is actually stuck in the slot.
 
faulty ignition switch? If so I could put back the old one and see what happens
 
I've actually never heard of one being bad to the point of not turning correctly. Since you said that you can't get the key out, it takes my mind down a different path pointing at electrical issues. Try reconnecting the battery, make sure it has a good, corrosion free connection.
 
I put the old switch back in , no difference. I noticed though that the white plastic gear must not be aligned right- when I moved the gear inside the slot where the switch goes, I could get the key out and it turns more freely. Just seems to stop at the end of its travel and nothing happens.
It has a recent starter also.
I checked all the fuses too.
WTF?
 
so how do you line up the gear on the switch and in the key switch? Tried passkey reset did nothing. Still stuck in park and no fire
 
replying to myself.... I turned the gear a bit inside the shaft, and got the shifter to go into neutral.. Still no start though. At least I can get it rolling if I need a tow now.
 
If you going to replace the ignition switch by the book you need to remove the ignition key lock cylinder. There are probably other guys that replaced it without removing the lock cylinder and I tried myself going that path without succés.

When I replaced mine I just pulled it out and in with the new one, I could start my truck but I just had to blow on the key and the battery light will come on. So I did it the second time by the GM service manual and now it's working like it did when the truck was brand new.

To do it by the book you need to the following:

1. Key out, remove old ignition switch
2. Put key back in and turn to ignition on (not start)
3. Use a small allen wrench in a small hole on top of lock cylinder case to release the lock for the cylinder (you might have to remove the antenna around the lock cylinder first if you have one).
4. Pull out the lock cylinder and leave the key in the cylinder.
5. Look inside the lock cylinder housing and you see a rektangular slot, use a BIG skrewdriver or simlular to turn that rektangular counter Clock wise to the stop (you might have to push on that small brasscylinder next to the lock cylinder, it's the park lock release button).
6. Put the new ignition switch back in but it's very important that you did NOT turned the gear wheel in any other position then it was when you bought it.
7. Now use your skrewdriver or whatever you used to turn the rektangular slot and turn it Clock wise to ignition on, just Before the return spring loaded start (you can feel the spring load if you turn it slowly).
8. Put the lock cylinder back in, lined up with the rektangular slot.
9. Turn the key to ignition off and connect the Cables and trim around the column, you can try it Before you do all the trim just to make sure it's working.
 
You said the battery is how old?

I had the same issue. Sprayed the cylinder with dry graphite lube a few times. Has not happened since. I also might have had the battery replaced around the same time. Pick your poison.
 
Have you done any research on your own? Sorry that we can't seem to get you lined out, I just replaced mine on the 28th but mine went in with no troubles so I didn't have to tinker with it so I don't know exactly what to tell you.

Here's a link for some reading if you wanna see other cases and maybe some how-to's.
https://www.google.com/search?site=&source=hp&ei=fvikVIT_CMmcygSvooKgAw&q=+trailblazer+ignition+switch+replacement&oq=+trailblazer+ignition+switch+replacement&gs_l

Since your key was stuck on, isn't your battery dead now? Maybe it died during the swap and that's why you can't get the key out.

Also, there's a brass-ish colored button down there around where the ignition switch goes in, with the cover off you can push it and you should be able to turn the key back to off. Good luck.
 
Hey!!! Nobody Reading my post explaining about missaligned switches or Alansd post that he is having it towed???
 
swede said:
Hey!!! Nobody Reading my post explaining about missaligned switches or Alansd post that he is having it towed???
Your method is completely different than mine and a lot more work so I have nothing to say about it. And yes, he had it towed but that doesn't mean he had it fixed.
 
Yeah that's true but, there is a big but here. He already been tinkering with the ignition key lock cylinder (turning it most likely without the switch) and he most likely been turning the slotted Wheel on the switch it self.

So why not do it again and do it right this time, my experience from 20+ years as a proffessional auto Tech is that the extra time it takes to do it by the book most of the times takes less time then tinkering with it and trying to get the 2 Wheels to line up perfecly.

But just my $0.02, we all do things in a different way. Nothing personal ok?
 
I completely understand your point. You definitely have more general auto knowledge than I do.

My point is, hundreds of people have been doing it the same (wrong in your book) way that I've done it and have had no troubles, I've done it twice myself.

Either his gears are way outta line or he's got another issue with the electronics causing the key to lock in the on position. I don't really know though, it's hard to diagnose things through the internet, for me, at least.
 
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When you do it the first time and have no knowledge about how it works it's hard to get it right.

Even I with 20+ years of experience got it wrong the first time, sure I got it in there and it worked just fine. But it was a couple of teeth wrong so I just had to put my hand on the key and the battery light came on, my Point was that if you want the teeth to line up perfect between the switch and the lock cylinder you need to do it the right way and if it's your first time it's a lot easier if you know how it works instead of just showing it in there.

And it's even harder to get it right if somebody else been there Before you and installed the switch in the wrong position that you don't know about.

This is just FYI to other members new or old :-)
 
Thanks for all the ideas, I spent two hours looking on the web for some clue on how to line up the gears. I never turned the gear on the new switch only in the key housing. I could only turn that a bit each way, and then I would reinsert the switch to see how it was working. I got it to let me shift the gear lever into Neutral. That was a bug thing, as I was able to push the truck backwards out of the garage..

I have free towing on my Insurance, so I called them and had it towed to the shop I use. I am thinking it is mis-alignment, or maybe I blew the relay somehow.
I will know tomorrow. They have a great tech who has been there 12 years and really knows his stuff.
I'll post what he tells me.

You all have a great New Year, as for me I am gonna go back to a F*rd...!
 

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