What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]

Following the resolution of my front HVAC issues, the rear system decided to act up. I routinely use the rear system, with the 2nd row ceiling vents turned forward to provide quicker heat relief with less air noise so I can enjoy my music.

Was leaving the office one evening, and noticed the air blowing on my neck from the 2nd row vent was warm, and the rear system is never used for heating, so the temperature actuator must have failed. This morning, pulled the panel to get back there, and tried to remove it, but it wouldn't budge. After some pulling and prying, it eventually came loose, but snapped off part of the stud for the temperature door with it! :duh: :lipsrsealed:

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Replacement actuators seem cheap enough, but can't seem to find the door anywhere. Haven't been to any of the u-pull-it yards in quite a while, and this is NOT the time of year that I'd want to be rummaging for parts out in the open weather.

I may try to repair it with some JB weld or something, but I'm also debating just leaving it as is, since I was able to manually turn it to the cooling side, and that's all I ever use it for. Decisions, decisions...
:undecided:
 
Hard to tell but looks to me like there's still enough of the stud left on the door shaft to still work fine with a new actuator. As long as the door moves freely and was not the cause for the shutdown then there shouldn't be enough force required to move the door to matter to the actuator.
 
On looking closer I could be wrong, depends on the perspective of the photos.
 
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Yeah there's a little bit of meat left on the stud, and I did initially consider that option until I saw how the hole in the actuator was keyed. The weight of the door makes it fall when disconnected, and the shaft has a flathead groove in it, I assume to align the door with the actuator's position when installing, since you cant move the actuator position itself. (normally)

I cracked open the old one, and if I dislodge the motor so the gear comes out of place, I'm able to spin the remaining gears enough to get the port oriented correctly, so this will work after all. I was able to move the door this way, and letting go, the door would fall and move the actuator's position with it.

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How not to install an oil filter.

Recently acquired a 2008 TB LS and doing routine maintenance, not knowing any recent history. I've done a bazillion oil changes and never ran into this tight of an oil filter. After trying several techniques I solved it using an air hammer with a punch attachment. Drove the punch through the filter and then used a cheater bar to turn it. Had to do this 4 times (couldn't turn more than about 30 degrees due to space constraints) before it was loose enough to use an oil filter wrench to finally remove it, even then it still took a bit of muscle. Wow.
 

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